![]() Pull them flush with the front edge so that they are 1/2" in from the back edge. Screw and glue the three ribs to one of the large sheets, one flush with each edge and one in the middle. Cut three rib pieces at 33" long by 8-5/8" wide using the same methods. It's best to go ahead and drill bolt holes for mounting your casters at this point, before the whole thing is assembled. All of the dimensions I will give assume a 1/2" top and bottom adjust accordingly.Ĭut two sheets at 45" x 33-1/2" using a circular saw with a finishing blade and a clamped straightedge for nice clean cuts. It is not in any danger of collapsing, but the carcase does deflect some around the casters. Use 3/4" stock - the flat files are too heavy for thinner material. I made the top and bottom out of 1/2" plywood to save money in retrospect, that was a mistake. Adjust your dimensions to fit your flat file accordingly. This was calculated to fit inside the stamped-metal rim underneath the flat file, which would keep the base from slipping out, and, once it was mounted to casters, bring it up to precisely the same height as the neighboring desk. The carcase for this cabinet has a footprint of 45" x 33-1/2", and is 9-5/8" high. I chose to do much simpler butt-joints to save time and because this was a utilitarian studio tool, not a fine piece of furniture. This involves joining plywood panels together with rabbetted corners, glue, and/or Kreg-style pocket screwing. As plywood has evolved and become cheaper over the last 50 years, frameless methods have become more and more common. There are dozens of ways to build a carcase, but they boil down to two main methods: frame and frameless. In cabinetmaking, the carcase is the 5-sided "box" for a project, be it a kitchen cabinet, a dresser, or whatever. Screws (I prefer Spax brand #6 wood screws made for going into edge grain of plywood without splitting) ![]() 4 casters, two locking the dimensions in here are for 4-1/2" casters 1 sheet of 3/4" plywood (if I was doing it over I would do it all in 3/4" plywood) I did the whole thing with just a circular saw and a drill for faster, more accurate work, a table saw would be very helpful. The project took about $125 (could be well cheaper if you made some different material/caster choices) and 6 hours to make with simple tools. The solution was a simple plywood cabinet on casters with deep drawers. It's also not that tall, so we needed to elevate it up on a base that would bring it up to table top height, add some extra storage for art supplies, and make it easy to move around. It is a beast - nearly four feet wide, three feet deep, and super-heavy. She found a great deal on a flat file on Craigslist. It had been stored in plastic totes under our couch, but with the rental of a new studio it was was time to clean out the apartment and get those papers in their proper place. She has a wide-ranging portfolio of prints new and old, as well as different paper stock. My wife is a graphic designer and letterpress print artist. Nowadays, flat files have evolved into a hipster design accessory - Pinterest ideas abound! People use them to support drafting boards, set them up as coffee tables, or, occasionally, use them for actual print storage. They kept blueprints and drawings uncreased and wrinkle-free in wide, deep drawers that pulled out all the way. In a previous, paper-based age, flat files were important professional furniture for architects, engineers, and artists.
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